When using rattle can paint on small parts (we all do it at times) here is an old trick used by modelers . heat the can either in a tub of hot water or with a heat gun. make sure you monitor it carefully ,rotate and move gun up and down can, also shake before and during paint.CAUTION: You can blow the ends if you overheat it and can be hurt or make a mess so be careful!! Heat slowly about 6 to 8 inches from the can and only until it is warm not hot! leave the cap on too and if it gets too hot you will usually see the top pop (yes i have done it- never exploded one but possibility is there!) Spray first coat light and then the next one or two coats full coverage. And of course once done flip can upside down and spray to clear tube and nozzle , then wipe face of nozzle. You will be amazed at how well the paint flows and how fine it sprays…
Started working on fabrication of primary chain guard.
Took care of a few items the last few months, kick,magneto and drive, chain guard and cylinder head.
Procedure to replace sheathing using a quality heat shrink. Mount cable end in vise carefully and then heat while pulling on cable, once the temperature is correct it will release cable . Cut old sheathing off, install quality heat shrink over cable extending past ends about a half an inch.shrink, cool and then cut end flush with inner cable. you can also have metal ends replated while you are doing a restoration and having all your hardware replated…. or just polish if it’s aluminum.
Staking cable end is an alternate way , best (3 stakes ) at 120 degree’s apart.
marking cable to show seating. heat end and push until cable slide in.
Crimps on ends have to be opened be careful not to split them..use tapered and straight punches,drivers etc.
Finished cable, cost of about $1.00 for heat shrink,ends were aluminum so they were polished while cable was apart and now the assembled cable looks new .
BSA fork tube bent .107″ . Straightened in a press using a non metallic block bored and cut in half to set on the tube properly. The blocks material does not allow it to deflect or crack while moving the tube the proper depth so it will end up straight. First the tube is spun on supports to find where it is bent and then mark the high and low spots. It takes a few times to figure out the extent of deflection needed to straighten the metal while not going to far.. Finished up with .002″ t.i.r.
Helping repair hundreds of donated bicycles for families through fb4k….Either donate or help out if you can. http://www.fb4k.com
One of two cracks on BSA chain guard. crack was stop drilled at end ,relieved slightly along the crack and then mig welded…
weld blended out and then finished with scotch pad before prime and paint.
1966 round barrel BSA 441 v.e. and 1969 Honda z50 ground up restorations started. Engines and frames disassembled. 1921 AJS 350 side valve in back ground.